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cartapes
Приєднався 14 жов 2013
Old Car No Title No Problem
My personal experience titling an old parts car, originally purchased without a title. As always, do your due diligence to purchase cars that are NOT stolen etc etc etc.
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Відео
How To Paint Your Car 3 Metallic Paint
Переглядів 1773 роки тому
How To Paint Your Car 3 Metallic Paint
How To Weld Sheetmetal, Steel and Aluminum
Переглядів 1973 роки тому
How To Weld Sheetmetal, Steel and Aluminum
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my crank is forged nitrited and x drilled and chamfered oil holes ! rev`s to 8,200rpm !
This guy street races an 88 Monte Carlo
That crush washer is tight turning you even hear a toot come out at 6:25
Your knowledge is unquestionable; however, the intermittent audio takes a lot away from the pleasure of watching this valuable video. You may consider editing the audio predoing. redoing it. Thank you.
FAR AND AWAY - the BEST video on the Ford 9 inch out there - and I have seen dozens of them.
A bit off subject, but you mentioned a z junkyard. Lol. I need a spare tire well from a 77 or 78 donor. Help a fellow z guy out. Thanks. Btw great content. Thanks again
That I no longer have.unfortunately.
Knowledge and communication
Pete Jackson gear drive is minus 20 plus horsepower over a timing chain.
We build them much better now.
We need more people like u to show and tell how to do this ford gear set up so well told and shown thks ford people has good. Attitude lol
Hello ... This is the best video about front end rebuilding and alignment of a car...thank you. You have taught me a lot! Where are you located in the United States?
I fell asleep 4 times in first 5 minutes I had to move on
Great video, can you please tell me what brand and model spring compressor you used? Thanks, Mark
I imagine this video would work with an 8 inch also
This video is awesome.
Awesome step back in time! It's pretty insane you can run 11's all day now on our current street tires. Like the Firehawks are now street tires, really makes you appreciative of advancements!
The best auto engine instructor!!!
hands down a great video
Great information Greg
I love these videos now I know where the new guys on UA-cam got their ideas, this guy is from days of old. 👍🏻FANTASTIC!
Who ever. you are in the video and where ever you are now in life.....thank you very much.👍🏻
Just use a normal BBC pump....
Where are the rest of the videos for this? This is the last one I found on your channel?
My edit computer and backup drive were destroyed in a house mishap. Lost all the video footage. Considering all the other things to fix, the car sat and unfortunately other life priorities took over (like kids college bills). Last son is in college now (two have since graduated) and we were talking of doing something with the car- so I still have it- waiting...
Those ball hones are amazing.
I LOVE printed manuals. I love books in general and I think to many people rely on google searching.
Very informative video, very well explained 👍
Very well done.You know your stuff sir.I am in the process of replacing the bushings in a 1955 Ford.Thank you for sharing.Greetings from Luxembourg.
Well explained!!!!
Best tutorial I’ve seen to date!
Are you gonna play need for speed pro street or what
Great videos. Can I get this series on a CD? Thanks
These are the types of guys ahead of the curve back in their time
Is this a demolition derby car? Race car maybe, chained down motor, frame mounted "roll bar". Serious shit going on there
Wont aftermarket rods not influence the lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use???
Best explanation I’ve found. Thank you.
totally disagree with the lifter valley oil flo . I want 100% of my oil to be dropping on my flat tappet cam and lifters . I will freeze plug the forward holes going to the timing chain and close off the rear valley casting hole on the rear of the lifter valley and double the holes along the cam center to allow all oil to be returned to the oil pan by way of the cam and lifters .
You don’t want the oil hitting the cam or the crank. Splash/sling oiling is plenty.
@@philipmazzuca2269 I am sincere in my gratitude that you took the time to be clear on this issue. I would like to point out that GM only put 3 lifter valley drain holes other than the two forward to timing cover and two at the very rear. On later sbc after1967 GM decided to have one drain hole per set of lifters for a total of 8 near the lifters and the forward and rear pairs. I can not see that making the lifter valley into a shelf that may hold over a quart of oil being a benefit. I do not accept any theory which is in contradiction of basic laws of physics. And any positive or negative results must be in a stated amount a measure, before it carries any weight in my decisions.
@@philipmazzuca2269 Disregaurd most of my comment . I was replying to another video where they were plugging off the holes in the lifter valley and adding plugs or tall tubes to stop all oil from going by the cam and lifters . . Sry my bad . I will say this is a good video and is very helpful in many ways I have never considered . Appologies for the mix up .
@@fastbuzzardo4204 Race engine builders stopped oil dropping onto the cam and cranks for decades and you're telling them the opposite? Leave your street car engine close to stock since it will rarely see 5500 rpm. Race engines do a couple thousand more for long periods of time.
Top video
Audio sucks
Looks like he's about to fall asleep with those long blinks lol
I install my damper before installing my heads, so I can take measurements with a dial test indicator and actually find TDC and make sure it's marked properly, otherwise you're just hoping the marks supplied on your damper/pointer on timing cover are correct!
I have used this way and the old Keth Black way bought work great 👍.
bro pull up. i need help
the video is fine, but the audio is very poor with no improvement as the video progresses, if it was re-done with the audio improved it would be a good informative video that does not leave you with any audio break's in it, so your not missing some of the important info that this video seems to do.
Thank you, answered all my questions!
I'm going to make the argument you can just install the oil seal (slinger too if you have one) and Locktight the nut - then crush the collar. This way the nut is at the torque required to crush the collar to establish the correct rotational drag. I can't see how you can disassemble and reassemble the assembly, especially considering most old axles require pressing the second bearing and pinion yoke on, without jeopardizing the initial 'crush' of the collar
I swear there’s nothing more exciting than seeing a classic/old school hot rod breaking into the low 12s. This new tech is so fast that it’s boring
Amazing how far drag radial technology has come in the last 20+ years.
Amazing how far drag radial technology has come…
Great video, you would be disappointed in me for I'm currently sitting on cinder blocks and wood scetchy